Three weeks in Bali in May – one of my best holidays ever. The scenery, beaches, cuisine, infrastructure and above all the people: Bali has something for everyone. I flew with KLM from Frankfurt via Amsterdam for around €550.
Practical tips
- Bring a snorkel & mask – you can snorkel almost anywhere; rent fins on site.
- Scooter? Pack an international driving licence – I was promptly stopped by the police without one.
- Torch – it gets dark early and street lighting is often non-existent.
- Food: look out for a well-kept little Hindu temple in front of the warung (restaurant) – usually a good sign. Useful words: bir/Bintang (beer), nasi (rice), bami (noodles), goreng (fried), babi guling (suckling pig).
The route in three weeks
- Balangan Beach (south) – 2 nights to arrive
- North – 6 nights of calm & diving
- Ubud – 4 nights of yoga, rice fields & monkeys
- Gili Islands – 6 nights of dream beaches & diving
- Jimbaran Beach (south) – 2 nights to round it off
Balangan Beach: arriving in the south
You can skip the area around the airport (Kuta, Denpasar) – hotel blocks and souvenir shops. The small surfer village of Balangan Beach is perfect for acclimatising. The nearby Uluwatu Temple belongs on the programme – ideally early, as it’s always busy. Don’t forget a sarong.
The north: calm and diving
The north thrilled me far more than the south – more unspoilt, considerably less touristy, superb for snorkelling and diving. I stayed at Alam Mimpi right by the sea, run by Angie and Made, with the house reef “Angel’s Canyon” and a day trip to the famous Liberty wreck in Tulamben. Worthwhile excursions: the lake temple Pura Ulun Danu Bratan and the Les waterfalls.
Ubud: yoga, rice fields and monkeys
Ubud is my favourite town in Bali – walks through deep-green rice fields, the Monkey Forest (go early!), Balinese dance at the Ubud Palace and the national dish babi guling (e.g. at Ibu Oka). I stayed at the Nur Guest House in the middle of a rice field.
Gili Meno: dream beaches near Lombok
From Bali’s west coast, a speedboat takes you to Gili Trawangan in a good hour, then a small boat onward. Three islands: Gili T (party), Gili Meno (calm), Gili Air (in between). I was on Gili Meno – a dream. No motor vehicles, no dogs, wonderfully quiet nights. Coral reefs right off the beach at 3–6 metres, ideal for beginners. Sundowners at the legendary Reggae Bar, dinner at the Sasak Cafe.
Back to the south: Jimbaran
To finish, the white Jimbaran Beach, about 20 minutes from the airport, with daily sunsets and fish restaurants right on the sand. A good, relaxed wind-down before the flight home.
