Israel was a surprise for me – my second trip, and I felt completely safe. Yes, the military and police are present, but that creates a sense of security rather than worry. (I didn’t visit the West Bank.)
Getting there
Most German airports fly to Ben Gurion – around 20 km south-east of Tel Aviv, 50 km north-west of Jerusalem. From the airport, the train costs about €2 to Tel Aviv and €4 to Jerusalem. Google Maps reliably shows the connections.
Base: Tel Aviv
For a long weekend, Tel Aviv is the perfect base, with a day trip to Jerusalem. Lovely neighbourhoods: Florentin, Lev HaIr, Kerem HaTeimanim and Neve Tzedek – alternative, full of cafés, bars and clubs. Despite Shabbat, Friday evening is great for going out, and on Saturday mornings cafés open for breakfast.
Activities: explore the city on foot or by bike, Carmel Market, the Tel Aviv Museum of Art, Friday midday in the old town of Jaffa, nightlife in Florentin in the evening, a Saturday stroll along Rothschild Boulevard – and of course the beach.
Food & drink: hummus at Hasson’s Humus (Florentin), grill at M25 (Carmel Market), cocktails at Pimpinella, pizza with a live DJ at teder.fm, beer at Tony & Esther.
Day trip: Jerusalem
Jerusalem is a must – plan 1 to 3 days. Don’t arrive on Shabbat (Friday evening to Saturday evening), as much is closed. Buses leave from Tel Aviv’s Central Bus Station every 15 minutes (about 50 minutes, around €5, with Wi-Fi).
Highlights: let yourself drift through the old town and markets, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Western Wall and Temple Mount (limited hours), the Yad Vashem memorial. Food: Mahane Yehuda Market, hummus at Ben-Sira, a special evening with an old-town view at the Notre Dame Rooftop.
With more time: Dead Sea & Negev
If you stay longer, drive from Jerusalem to the Dead Sea (Ein Gedi or Ein Bokek). The Masada fortress is worth seeing; the highlight is a bath with a mud treatment. You can stay cheaply at the HI – Masada Hostel. Via the northern Negev desert it’s about 3.5 hours back to Tel Aviv – a stop in quiet Be’er Sheva is worthwhile.
