Beirut isn’t a classic sightseeing destination – but that’s fully made up for by the abundance of restaurants, cafés and nightlife. I hadn’t eaten this consistently well in a long time. One heads-up: people smoke everywhere, often shisha at the next table.
Restaurants & cafés
- Maryool – my absolute favourite: intimate, few tables, fine fusion cuisine (upscale prices).
- Feluka – fish restaurant and wine bar, perfect after a day at Sporting Club Beach.
- El Nejmeh – a lovely square with several restaurants; Zaman does great vegetarian mezze and desserts.
- Beit Halab – shawarma around the clock, ideal for a late-night craving.
- Manara Palace Café – by the sea, full of Lebanese families on Sundays.
- Sip – a modern, hip café on the way from Hamra to Mar Mikhael.
Bars
- Mystic – in a little alley near Hamra. Bartender Diego tells you plenty about Beirut and Lebanon, with sport on the screens. It won me over instantly.
- Ferdinands – definitely try the Gin Basil; the conversations with staff and guests noticeably extended my visit.
Beirut eats and celebrates with a natural ease that’s contagious. Plan enough evenings.

