Riga is the underrated jewel of the Baltics. I have been coming back since 2017, and the city wins me over with its striking architecture, rich history and vibrant culture. Here is my complete insider guide for a first visit, including the places I take every guest to.
Getting to Riga: the options at a glance
By plane. Several airlines fly from German cities to Riga in under two hours. I now prefer Lufthansa; AirBaltic caused serious delays more than once.
By car. With time and an appetite for a road trip, the route through Poland into the Baltics is a scenic one.
By ferry. German ports like Travemünde and Rostock have ferry connections across the Baltic Sea. It is about as relaxed as arriving gets.
Where to stay: from hostel to design hotel
Hostels. Cheap and central: Naughty Squirrel and Cinnamon Sally Backpackers.
Apartments and mid-range. Comfortable without luxury prices: Stabu Sēta Residence and the Lāčplēša loft residence.
Premium. For a special night: Park Inn by Radisson Residence or the Grand Poet by Semarah.
Coliving. A small note in my own interest: in Riga I run the Coliving Residences with a partner, 20 rooms across three central apartments, on Airbnb in summer and for international students from September to June.
My Riga on foot: the loop I walk with every guest
Riga is compact, and most of it is walkable. This is the loop I do almost every time, and it fills a whole day nicely.
The Central Market and its halls
My starting point is almost always the Central Market. A couple of hours disappear easily in the old halls, each with its own theme, from vegetables and meat to fish.
In the fish hall there is a tiny fish counter with fresh fish and a brilliant solyanka. The best cure for a hangover, and I end up there pretty much every time 😉
After that, the ramble across the flea market around it is worth it. It is always fun to see what turns up for sale. From there it is on to the next stop.
The observation deck of the Academy of Sciences
A few minutes away stands the Latvian Academy of Sciences. The building alone is a stunner, a hefty Stalinist wedding-cake tower. For a few euros there is a lift up to what is, in my opinion, the best observation deck in the city. Best on a clear day; in heavy cloud it is less rewarding.
The Old Town and a free tour worth taking
Next comes the Old Town. The lanes are best explored at a wander, and no tour is needed for that. What I do warmly recommend is a tour by Free Riga Tours. I have done it twice, really good.
Just not the classic Old Town tour, which is easy to manage alone. Better the Alternative Riga Free Tour or the Soviet Riga Free Tour. I have not done the Soviet one yet, but I would in a heartbeat. The tours run on a pay-what-you-want basis, settled at the end.
Also worth a look nearby: Riga Cathedral with one of the largest organs in Europe, the ornate House of the Blackheads, the Art Nouveau quarter around Alberta iela and the Orthodox nativity cathedral.
The Corner House, the former KGB building
Locals simply call it the KGB museum. It is heavy going. This is where the Soviet secret police locked people up, interrogated and tortured them. Anyone who wants to see the cellar cells has to book a guided tour in advance, and the slots fill quickly.
I still take almost every guest there, because it belongs to Latvia’s history and shows how the Soviet occupation regime treated anyone who thought differently. It makes a lot about this country and the region easier to understand afterwards.
A day trip to the sea: Jūrmala
When the weather plays along, a trip out to Jūrmala is a must. I am there pretty much always, even in winter, just not in the rain.
From the central station the train runs there for around one and a half euros, and the ride alone is a small experience. Then it is a walk along the beach with a coffee or a beer along the way. Every kilometre or two there is a bar right on the sand. Best planned so there is still time for a good dinner in the evening.
At the end of the beach walk I like to stop at one of my favourite restaurants, the Armenian Nojan Tapan. I really like this about Riga and its surroundings: there are plenty of Armenian and Georgian restaurants, which I do not know like this from Germany. I happily eat my way down the menu there, wine included. In the city itself, Armenia Restaurant is a good alternative.
More day trips
Sigulda. The “Latvian Switzerland” with forests, castles and the Gauja valley, great for the active.
Cēsis. A medieval little town with an impressive castle ruin and a charming old town.
Food and drink
Riga’s food scene runs from a cosy café to fine dining. These are my regular haunts.
Latvian, good and cheap
LIDO Vērmanītis is a must for me: a Latvian buffet, good and cheap. LIDO is a chain, but it is still worth it. Cheaper still and quick is Delicio. I go there when I am in Riga longer for work and just want to eat well, fast and cheaply.
Cafés
MiiT Coffee is one of my favourite cafés, fully vegetarian and part vegan. And for anyone with a sweet tooth: Kūkotava has brilliant cakes and pastries to the point of collapse.
Going out in Riga
Riga has a surprisingly lively bar and nightlife scene, a bit like Berlin or Leipzig a few years ago. There are many empty spaces that quickly turn into a bar: a table and a fridge, done.
- KKC, Kaņepes Kultūras centrs. A brilliant party and event venue. A must.
- Ala Pagrabs. An absolute cult spot that feels like it has always been there: live music, beer and cheap food.
- Bar Six. A cool cocktail bar with a twist: ring a door and someone comes to fetch you.
- Čē. A fairly new bar, exactly the kind of taken-over empty space.
- Tallinas kvartāls. I really like this corner in the northern Centrs. The site lines up bars, cafés and clubs one after another.
Reading tip: For a compact way to plan the weekend, there is a ready-made 3-day Riga itinerary at the Coliving Residences.
Wrap-up
Riga is compact, cheap and surprisingly varied, exactly the perfect target for a long weekend. And with more time, Riga connects nicely into a bigger loop: Vilnius, Tallinn and Helsinki are close and easy to add.
And for anyone looking for a place right in the city: my Coliving Residences are only a walk from most of these places.
